The Full Kitchen

Culinary Adventures in a Tiny California Kitchen

Patient Pastitio Adventure

June 25, 2020 by Alyssa D in baking, main course

On a winter hiking trip in high school, I struggled to ascend the steep trail, sweaty and red-faced with an overstuffed pack. An older student saw me falter. She positioned herself directly in front of me and set a slow, methodical pace. Step, breathe, step, breathe.

With everything happening now, that old impatience is resurfacing. I want us, as a people, to get there already — the virus vanquished, systemic racism and bigotry excised, good defeating evil, the environment restored. Our packs are so full.

I realize that this might feel a bit heavy for a fun little food blog. *Takes a deep breath.*

You know what else is heavy? Pastitio.

My Big Fat Greek Bean Adventure

April 14, 2020 by Alyssa D in main course

Spring holidays are normally a time to get together. I wish so badly that you could be here, welcomed with a hug and your drink of choice. Imagine an appetizer spread fit for an army. Dave Brubeck on the speakers. Comforting food smells emanating from pots and pans. Flowers. Fancy cutlery. Cloth napkins.

Instead, I have to hold onto this precious dream for a time when it’s safe to come out. In the meantime, we’ve held onto each other in our tiny kitchen. And gotten creative with limited ingredients.

Greek Breakfast Pitas Adventure

November 17, 2019 by Alyssa D in breakfast, sides

Eating the Greek breakfast wrap at the farmers market required sitting down — and both hands.

It was the perfect flavor combination and surprisingly affordable, too. Lemony potatoes spread on a giant warm pita piled with seasoned scrambled eggs, chicken gyro strips, fresh spinach, crumbled feta, tomatoes, and a dollop of tzatziki sauce.

Then one year the Mediterranean food stand failed to return. I was on my own.

Meat-Free Moussaka Adventure

April 29, 2019 by Alyssa D in baking, main course

The tower of eggplant slices rose ridiculously high. I’d miscalculated the time required to make three full pans of moussaka — two with beef and one vegan — and was rushing around my narrow kitchen in Queens.

Marie, visiting from France, made her miraculous chocolate mousse and tried to keep me calm as I worked on the béchamel and roasted eggplant discs like a madwoman. We prepared enough salad for an army. My Big Fat Greek Dinner Party of early 2009 was living up to its name.

Although everyone seemed to have a fun time and enjoy the food, the one thing that still irked me years later was the vegan moussaka.

DIY Sous Vide Rack of Lamb Adventure

April 14, 2019 by Alyssa D in main course

This is it, I thought. This is how we’re going to die — a fire inside a church on Greek Easter in Astoria.

My parents and I watched in horror as the priest walked down the aisle holding out two giant bundles of lit candles, one in each ham-hock hand. The people in the pews lunged, trying to get their candles lit directly from him. For good luck? Who knows.

Large men in leather jackets jostled. The cologne and perfume were overwhelming. Mom smelled burning hair.

Dad’s Greek Bread Adventure

January 17, 2019 by Alyssa D in baking

During my first spring living in Colorado, I opened a box that my dad had overnighted from Vermont. After opening the flaps, I breathed in the most glorious smell of fresh Greek bread. Dad sent me two of the precious loaves he’d made.

Our family’s recipe for Greek bread makes four loaves or one large braided vasilopita — a special New Year’s version covered in powdered sugar that hides a lucky coin. When my mom typed it up ages ago, the recipe spanned multiple pages. Since then, more notations emerged.

I’d never attempted it. This holiday season, however, I asked Dad to teach me how. This lesson would be his present to me. So, on my birthday, we got to work.

Stuffed Grape Leaves Redemption Adventure

August 21, 2018 by Alyssa D in appetizers

“Ooo! Did you make these?” And there were the Trader Joe’s Greek stuffed grape leaves, right out of the can, taunting me. “No, these came from the store. They’re pretty good, though.” Enough was enough.

The previous dolmathes I’d made from scratch using Rena Salaman’s recipe hadn’t worked. The first ones were perfectly cooked inside, but the grape leaves were still tough. A second attempt resulted in over-rinsing the leaves, making the final dolmathes super bland.

The third time had to be the charm.

Yiayia’s Spanakopita Adventure

April 09, 2018 by Alyssa D in baking, sides

Mom sent me on a mission as a kid. I was to watch Yiayia as she made spanakopita and find out how she did it. I’d like to say that I took detailed notes that afternoon and the experience launched my journalism career. That was not the case.

Yiayia worked deftly. The whole thing was a blur.

Flaming Cheese Adventure

August 07, 2017 by Alyssa D in appetizers

“Opa!” The unspoken rule at the annual Greek festival here is that someone shouts this every few minutes and the rest of the attendees answer in kind. Although the meaning remains fairly imprecise — “yay!” or “woooo!” or some other affirmative exclamation — I’ve found that “opa!” becomes the perfect thing to yell when setting alcohol-drenched fried cheese on fire.